NAM CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
Nam Cat Tien National Park is home to some of the
world’s rarest, most impressive wildlife in one of the
last lowland jungles in Vietnam.
Here live the only surviving Javan rhinos on mainland Asia;
tigers; leopards, both common and clouded; rare smaller
fishing, leopard, and Asian golden cats; massive gaur and
banteng; wild Asian elephants; nearly extinct black-shank douc
langurs, nattily attired in varicolored furs of red, brown,
gray, black, and white; and hundreds of dazzling birds and
butterfly species.
At least 62 mammal species, more than 300 birds and 40 kinds
of reptiles have returned to jungles once defoliated and maimed
by wartime bombing. Many huge old-growth trees survived and
with regrowth, lush orchid-festooned forest now covers 87
percent of this 309-square-mile (800-km2) reserve about 95
miles (150 km) northeast of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) off
Highway 20, of which almost half is a core “strict
protection zone.”
Four kinds of storks—painted, woolly-necked,
black-necked, and lesser adjutant—forage and nest with
quiet yellow and cinnamon bitterns and stately purple and
Chinese pond herons around its many lakes and ponds—some,
former bomb craters. They and families of lesser whistling
ducks and a few rare white-winged wood ducks—discovered
here only recently—keep a wary look-out for cruising
Siamese crocodiles and, from above, menacing crested serpent
eagles and black-shouldered kites.
Eurasian kingfishers are a dazzling cobalt-winged blur when bright plumaged males pursue mates with
shrill whistles along streambanks where they later nest. Males, able to hold beaksful of fish while still
whistling loudly and distinctly, then bring food to tunnels where females incubate round, pinkish-white
eggs, sometimes nestled on a litter of fish bones. They are found in Europe, Asia and Africa.
Forest glades conceal rare shy orange-necked partridges,
detected most often by plaintive cuckoo-like
“tututututu” calls in series sometimes of 60 or
more, and equally scarce Germain’s peacock-pheasants
cackling noisily. Banded and white-throated kingfishers swoop
with rattling cries along streams. Greater flameback, laced,
and pale-headed woodpeckers glean tree trunks and brilliant
orioles, bee-eaters, and flowerpeckers investigate floral vines
with such breathtaking neighbors as Asian emerald and drongo
cuckoos, pompadour green pigeons, Asian fairy bluebirds, and
stately, iridescent green peafowl.
A joint project by governments of Vietnam and the
Netherlands with World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) works to
protect the reserve by raising public awareness of physical and
biological values and generating income-producing jobs for
local people in park protection, maintenance, and ecotourism.
Their efforts have resulted in excellent lists of the
reserve’s birds, mammals and butterflies, marked trails
along rivers and through woods and grasslands. There are guides
(limited English-speaking) and simple overnight accommodations.
Trips with boats and drivers can be arranged for more remote
parts of the park’s three sectors, located in three
provinces but all managed by the Hanoi Ministry of Agriculture
and Rural Development (rhinos are in the Cat Loc sector,
slightly separate from Tay Cat Tien and Nam Cat Tien
sectors).
Best times are drier November–April, when wildlife can
be easier to spot (though wildlife in dense jungle is never
easy to spot).
The park can be reached by public transport from Ho Chi
Minh, also through government organized tour groups
there—not always effortlessly. Roads can be in poor
condition and transport unreliable. This is a wild undeveloped
area with the rewards as well as inconveniences that
betokens.